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Monday, May 13, 2013

TO SHANGHAI WITH LOVE


I BOW MY HEAD TO THE CHINESE

I bow my head to the Chinese….and this is the only way I can start this blog. 

In my youth, mid life and more recent impression of China was that of a ‘closed’ state, with limited access to the outside world.  I had read and heard about Mao, the Communist party, Tiananmen Square protests, and wondered in awe about the great wall, the Forbidden City, and the terracotta warriors, but always with fascination and a great desire to visit this great country.   The desire was even greater when few months back I went to watch the latest Bond flick ‘Skyfall’ and the opening scene of Shanghai had me gaping in wonder.  So Shanghai was immediately added to my bucket list.

As luck would have had it, when the opportunity to visit Shanghai and Ningbo on a business trip came up, I grabbed it with both hands and on 25th March 2013, left for this wonderful country along with my Kuwaiti colleague, Fahad.

Visas

Securing a visa to China is relatively easy and I got mine in 3 days.  The consulate is located in Yarmouk (Block 5, St 3) and open from 9:00am to 12:000 and again from 1:00pm to 3:00pm.  The visa application form is available on line http://kw.chineseembassy.org/eng/  and easy to fill.  For the first time visitor, the visa is valid for a single entry and up to 3 months.  However, if you are traveling a second time, you can apply for the multiple entries ‘1 year visa’ at a slightly higher fee.

Flights to Shanghai

Various airline choices are available from Kuwait, but we decided to stick to Emirates as they had the most convenient flight schedules and connections.   We had also decided to spend a day in Hong Kong on our return journey and Emirates Airlines had the perfect connections without having to spend too much time in transit at Dubai airport.

Shanghai – a few thoughts and tidbits  

The time difference between Kuwait and Shanghai is + 5 hours, so after a pleasant journey by the Emirates Boeing 777ER, we landed at Shanghai’s huge airport.  I wouldn’t say it’s fancy like Dubai, but it’s practical.  The people at immigration were stern but efficient and there were little butterflies inside my stomach, but after the usual questions of ‘Why are you visiting China’ ‘Where are you staying’ and ‘How long will you be staying’ we exited through custom without a hitch although my colleague had to open his hand bag and part with the oranges, apples and bananas his little daughter had packed in his hand bag without his knowledge, assuming her dad would face great difficulty for food in China.


Beautiful streets of Shanghai

The Bund in the evening

Our trading partners had arranged a private ‘black’ taxi for us and the Chinese driver who picked us up hardly spoke a word of English.  This is the first thing that hits you about China, literally nobody speaks English... Luckily for us, our business partner provided us with one of their staff, Mr. Pi who acted as our guide and translator during the few days we spent in Shanghai.  Pi was such a pleasant company, but more importantly,  he filled us in on a lot of Chinese culture and their way of life and at the same time was very inquisitive to know more about the Muslim way of life, how rich the Arabs are,  etc etc.. 

When I told him that I was Indian, he proudly told me that he has  watched quite a few Indian films and his favorite being ‘Three Idiots’.  He said most Chinese loved Sharman Joshi’s role as the poor boy studying to get his family out of poverty.

Hotels in Shanghai range from expensive to cheap and on the recommendations of our contacts in China; we decided to stay at the 4 star ‘Royal Court Hotel’ www.royalcourthotel.com.cn which is situated on the Huaihai Road and close to the main shopping and commercial areas.  When we arrived at the hotel, I was quite disappointed as it looked small and had a tiny reception area. So when I told the receptionist that I would prefer to see the room before paying the advance, he very confidently blurted out ‘You like room sir’ ,  something about the way he said it gave me the confidence to skip checking out the room and after the usual check-in formalities, we took the lift to our rooms on the 6th floor.

Imagine my surprise to find that our rooms were actually service apartment style rooms with fantastic wooden Chinese style décor, central heating and extremely large.  The room also had a kitchen area, office desk and a computer, sitting room area and an inviting bed…and all this for USD.85/- Although the hotel looks tiny on the outside and is hidden from the main road, I would recommend it to anyone traveling to Shanghai with a moderate budget. 

The Bund at night
End March, Shanghai was cold.  Although the temperature hovered around 12 degrees centigrade during the afternoon, it went down below 7 degrees late evenings.  Our first day in Shanghai was spent visiting the popular landmarks like the Yuyuan Garden which is a famous garden located in the heart of Shanghai.  The garden features great rocks, various kinds of trees, bamboo, Jade rock, and even a goldfish pond.  There is an admission fee to enter this garden.  We also visited the ‘Bund’ which is actually a marina with really fancy looking buildings on either side of the Huanpu River.  This is a must visit place as it will give you an idea of the great progress China has made.

Yuyuan Garden
Shanghai is a very clean city and everything is orderly.  For transportation, most people use the subway or the bus.  Taxis are also available and quite a few of the taxis have women drivers.  We were fortunate to use the subway, and I must say what is so amazing is that  a train arrives every two minutes and people get in and out such a orderly manner that it was embarrassingly too nice.  Even though hundreds of thousands of Chinese use the subway daily to commute to work, everything is done is systematically. 

Early the next morning we took the fast train to Ningbo (Industrial province located about 3 hours away by train) and this was one amazing journey I will never forget.  When we arrived at the Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station, it looked more like an airport and I believe it is the largest railway station in Asia.  It looked every bit that and just 10 minutes before departure, we had to go to the boarding gate (just like an aircraft), and the train arrived and left exactly on time.  The train we took was a fast one (touching 200 km per hour), although I understand there are faster trains, but my Kuwaiti colleague who had never traveled long distance by train before was a little concerned and so we decided to use the slower one.  On board, beer, cold drinks, snacks and food is served just like in the aircraft (at a charge of course) by pretty hostesses and the journey was extremely pleased.  We passed some amazing countryside dotted with storied farm houses, which our Chinese friend explained belonged to farming clans.  There may be poor people in China, but it never shows and seeing baggers in the streets slums, etc is out of the question.




Using the sub-way

At the train Station

On our way to Ningbo - beautiful country side

In China nobody wastes electricity.  People try and refrain from using lights when not required and many houses we noticed have large windows to ensure enough sunlight enters the house during the day.  When my friend wanted to exchange money at the bank, we found that one of the door was permanently closed with a note saying, use other door to save energy.  This we noticed in quite a few places. That along with the solar heaters on every roof top were some of the energy saving ideas we noticed in Shanghai.

Everyone has one - solar heating
One of the things I like to do when I travel overseas is try the local cuisine and in Shanghai we had the opportunity to try real authentic Chinese food.  Food is not cheap especially in the more fancy restaurants and we did try Chinese, Indian, and Turkesh restaurants.  I have written a separate blog on our bad experience at the Tandoor Restaurant and you can check it out in this blog site.

Nice authentic Chinese food
While stepping into our China Eastern Airline onwards to Hong Kong, I could not but help thinking how much progress this country had made and wondered if our own Country (India) could ever emulate them.  I wonder!!!!

Julio Cardoso
Kuwait

“BAD EXPERIENCE IN INDIAN RESTAURANT IN SHANGHAI”


“BAD EXPERIENCE IN INDIAN RESTAURANT IN SHANGHAI”
2 of 5 starsReviewed April 9, 2013
One of the great experiences one can have during an overseas trip is tasting the cuisine of the Country you visit, and during my recent visit to Shanghai (China) for a week on business, I had the chance to taste fantastic authentic Chinese food which is so ‘different’ from the Chinese food we eat here in Kuwait that it is sometimes quite overwhelming, but still a great experience.

It was on the last day of our stay in China that my Kuwaiti colleague who traveled with me started missing his own kind of food and since we could not locate any Arabic restaurant nearby, we decided to try an Indian restaurant we managed to locate via goggle, close to where we were staying. Since we were also entertaining a Chinese business colleague, I felt it would be a good opportunity to let him try and appreciate good Indian food. What a mistake it was!!!

The name of the restaurant is ‘The Tandoor Shanghai’ and it is located in the Jinjiang Hotel in the busy part of Shanghai. As we (my colleague and the Chinese friend) entered, the first thing that struck us was the beautiful décor and the cozy seating arrangements, but alas that is just about all the good I can say about this restaurant.

The menu presented to us by the waiter who by the way took his own time to reach us made me realize that perhaps we had made a mistake with price of dishes varying from 95 RMB to 160 RMB. Still, after making a quick mental calculation I worked out that we would be spending something like 600 RMB for our meal (Approx. KD.27/-) and since we did not want to embarrass ourselves in front of our Chinese friend, we decided to go ahead and order.

Shortly after we were seated, a gentleman who introduced himself as Vipul came to take our order. Handsome character with a charming smile, the first thing he wanted to know was, where we were from. Without a thought, I proudly blurted out that we had come from Kuwait and introduced him to everyone on the table. Smart alec that I am, I also told him that it was our first time in Shanghai, big mistake # 1. Con artist that he was, he immediately tried speaking to my colleague in broken Arabic and explained that he hails from New Delhi and had been in China for the last 25 years. His friendly attitude caught us off guard and this led to our mistake # 2, allowing him to suggest what we should eat, including items off the menu.

Since my Kuwaiti friend was keen on avoiding chicken, Vipul suggested the Vegetable kebab platter (basically grilled vegetables) and a mix grilled platter of sea food and meat. My Kuwaiti friend immediately agreed, I am sure visualizing the type of grilled food he would normally eat at the the Freej Soweileh or Mughal Mahal in Kuwait, and although the combination was not mentioned in the menu we decided to go ahead assuming it would cost the average price of their expensive dish.

The food I must say was extremely disappointing and the butter chicken, the lamb biriyani, the rice and the mix platter were so ordinary that any small takeaway joint in Kuwait would have prepared better food. Our Chinese friend wanted to know if this was the type of rice we ate in India and when I told Vipul that the rice was undercooked and of low quality, he proudly told me that the rice came all the way from Peshawar (Pakistan). Believe me; it was worse than lowest grade ration rice we buy in India and surely not from Peshawar.

The disappointment of the food was nothing compared to the mild heart attack I was about to get when we finally asked for our bill. Now, I am not exaggerating, and I am enclosing a copy of the bill as valid proof, but this is exactly what we paid:-

Description Price in RMB
Masala tea 45
Kebab Platter (Veg) 160
Mix seafood and lamb platter 390
Green salad 38
Butter chicken 115
Lamb Biriyani 110
Rice plate 50
Plain Naan (3 pcs) 54
Johnnie Walker Black (60ml) 140
Soft drinks & Juice (3) 120
Service Charge (15 %) 183
Total 1405

We immediately realized we were duped and asked to see the manager. However, our con-artist friend said that he manages the restaurant and when we wanted to know how he decided on the charges for the Mix seafood and meat platter, he immediately pointed out that he took the average of each dish separately , added together and charged accordingly.

Flabbergasted, we wondered if we had ever eaten such ordinary food at such a cost ever in our life. We have dined in some pretty nice restaurants in Kuwait and other places and on a day like this I realized the value of living in Kuwait and eating good Indian food at reasonable rates. Our Chinese friend was upset too. He couldn’t believe that Indian food was so expensive and according to him, his family would spend in a month on food, on what we spend in one evening.

A guest sitting at a nearby table with his wife (they too are on a visit to China) came over and tried to reason out with Vipul that he cannot charge us rates not mentioned on the menu, but Vipul immediately tried to push him back to his table saying that it was none of his business and to mind his own business.

My Kuwaiti friend who by the way was footing the bill, told Vipul that we would write on the internet about the exorbitant prices and even take up the matter with the Indian Embassy in China and Chinese Consulate in Kuwait, but Vipul seemed to hardly care. A second restaurant supervisor (did not take his name) was much more sympathetic to our situation, and even offered us complementary ice-cream and dessert. However, from his behavior I realized that he was keener on us complaining about Vipul to better his position in the restaurant than to actually help us.

China is such a great country and I will be writing a separate blog about the wonderful people, the culture, the food and greatness of this country, but feel sad that far away from my own country I was cheated in an Indian restaurant by a con artist from New Delhi.

Along the way, I learned a few lessons which fellow travels must note when visiting restaurants at home or overseas : 1) Never mention you have come from the Middle East or a rich country, people assume that you come from a place where the streets are littered with gold and will charge you accordingly. 2) Always check for the price of items you may order and are not mentioned in the menu. 3) Look for hidden costs. We were not aware of the 15% service charge.

Julio Cardoso
Kuwait
  • Visited March 2013
    • 1 of 5 starsValue
    • 5 of 5 starsAtmosphere
    • 2 of 5 starsService
    • 2 of 5 starsFood